4.1 KiB
| title | description | date | tags | synopsis | imageURL | imageAlt | mastodon_id | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Learning to Love Myrrh: Myrrh & Rose Incense | I finally figure out how to make myrrh work in a composition. | 2024-08-05 |
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I finally figure out how to make myrrh work in a composition. | /img/pexels-david-roberts-940521-8323579.webp | A beautiful light-pink dog rose, rosa canina. | 112909867440319574 |
Myrrh can be a challenging note. I've seen the resins collected from various members of the Commiphora genus described as everything from loamy, bitter, and mushroomy, to reminiscent of cleaning fluid or a dental clinic; whatever impression you take from the fragrance of myrrh resin, there's no denying that it's unique; there is no mistaking myrrh. While I'm rarely a fan of myrrh alone, or as the predominant note in a sparse composition, I've always felt that there is something compelling about it. Despite its overall unpleasantness, I find heated myrrh resin to produce a dark, mysterious, and somehow sexy fragrance. When balanced well, such as in Mystic Jade from Shoyeido's Magnifiscents collection, it adds a wonderful, earthy warmth to a composition that's hard to beat.
For some time I've struggled to incorporate myrrh into a stick that I can be proud of; it isn't a resin that you can just drop into a composition with the expectation that it'll work. My experiments with commiphora kua, opoponax, and wightii have all ended in disappointment… until recently.
I've long had an inkling that myrrh would pair well with rose. It's challenging to incorporate flowers into combustible incense; some say it's close to impossible to do without winding up with an incense that smells of acrid burning plant material with, if you're lucky, a touch of whatever flower you've added. Certainly, I have realized that often other methods of incorporating floral fragrances work best. Recently I have discovered, however, that if you start with very good material, and methodically try varying ratios in a series of trail-burning tests, you may wind up surprised by how close a fragrance you can achieve to the fragrance of fresh flowers while minimizing acrid notes. For instance, in my testing, I found that a combination of 30% Rosa Canina and 70% Santalum Spicatum, both very high quality powders given to me by Dave of The World Makes Scents, smells absolutely wonderful.
With that knowledge, I composed a stick featuring myrrh, rose, and sandalwood. While the build isn't perfect, I'm already really enjoying the small batch of sticks that I made only a few days ago. The fragrance is gentle and powdery, with a hint of smoke, a soft rose note and that fruitiness that occurs when rose petals are heated. Benzoin lends a subtle sweetness alongside the sandalwood, while the myrrh adds it's unmistakable fragrance and a bittersweet molasses note. The whole ensemble is lifted and brought together by a smidgen of borneol camphor. The myrrh reduces the need for binders, so I've gone with a weak binder, acacia gum, which also helps to firm up and strengthen the extruded sticks once dried.
The Build
Note that this is a test build that produces less than four grams of dough; you may want to double the amount.
| Ingredient | Grams | % of Build |
|---|---|---|
| Myrrh Resin (Commiphora Kua) | 0.2 | 5.6% |
| Rose Petal (Rosa Canina) | 1 | 27.9% |
| Sandalwood (Santalum Spicatum) | 2 | 55.9% |
| Benzoin Siam | 0.14 | 3.9% |
| Acacia Gum | 0.2 | 5.6% |
| Borneol Camphor | 0.04 | 1.1% |
Thoughts
I really like this stick, but I do think that it could stand some improvement. Some spices might round out the profile a little, maybe a little clove and cinnamon. It's not the cleanest fragrance in the world, likely due to both the myrrh and the high ratio of flowers, but I have been finding it incredibly moreish nonetheless. I hope someone will try to make this and let me know their thoughts!